What Is a Tourbillon Watch — and Why Should I Care?
A Tourbi…WHAT? It means “Whirlwind” in French
If you wear a mechanical wristwatch, you know the satisfaction that results from wearing perfect craftsmanship on your wrist. Luxury journalist Alex Doak breaks down exactly where this satisfaction comes from.
“Your pride and joy probably benefit from a clear case-back, perfect for answering those detractors arguing that the words ‘modern’ and ‘mechanical wristwatch’ have no place in the same sentence. Unstrap your watch, flip it over and beguile these heartless robots with a microscopic spectacle of springs, levers, and cogs — a joyous anachronism that couldn’t be more essential in our disposable digital age.”
~ Alex Doak, writing for FashionBeans
In a phrase, the elegance of mechanical watches is a response to the depersonalization of digital and automated processes.
Tourbillon watches bring this mechanical-over-digital satisfaction to a whole new level. Tourbillon (the French word for ‘whirlwind’) adds an elegant complication to the mechanics of the watch escapement. Originally invented to improve timepiece accuracy, tourbillon watches now stand as a witness to the mastery and expertise required in mechanical watchmaking.
Still wondering how tourbillon watches work — or why you should care about their mechanical elegance? We have the 101 guide for you here, from tourbillon history to the best brands to look at when considering a purchase.
Tourbillon 101: Where Do They Come From and How Do They Work?
“A tourbillon is a tiny rotating mechanical cage, available in only the finest mechanical timepieces, that helps the watch combat the effects of gravity and deliver better time.”
~ Alex Williams, writing for The New York Times
The tourbillon was first patented more than 200 years ago, in 1801. The father of modern mechanical watchmaking, Abraham-Louis Breguet, saw the need to address the effect of gravity on the balance wheel of pocket watches. He started work on the prototype in 1795, and six years later had a workable patent on what is now known as the tourbillon.
The idea is simple enough, even if the execution is complicated. In watches, the tick of the second hand is regulated by a lever that continually locks and unlocks the escape wheel. In turn, the rate of this mechanism is regulated by the turn of the balance wheel. It is a miniaturized version of what happens in the pendulum swing of a grandfather clock.
The problem with pocket watches was that they sat in a pocket all day, with the balance wheel sitting upright. Over time, gravity worked on the balance wheel — making its oscillation inaccurate over the course of a day.
The tourbillon addressed this problem by giving the gear train a double purpose. With Breguet’s invention, the gear train powered both the escape wheel and the rotation of the mechanical assembly. With a tourbillon, the balance wheel is turned over 360 degrees every single minute. The constant movement negated the effect of gravity by evening out its impact on the device from every angle.
The construction of tourbillon is complicated for several reasons. Watchmakers want to make the cage that contains the entire mechanism as light as possible, and the assembly requires hundreds of tiny pieces — almost all assembled by hand.
This is why you should care about tourbillon: it’s a brilliant invention and an elegant exposition of watchmaking prowess. The modern iteration of tourbillon watches retains this sophistication, even if the original purpose of the tourbillon is no longer necessary in wristwatches. The attention to detail required for crafting tourbillon watches makes them an exclusive luxury item — only a few thousand are produced every year.
What to Consider When Buying a Tourbillon
These days, tourbillon watches are all about matching your own sense of style and desire for mechanical elegance.
“Don’t buy for the sake of it, buy a tourbillon that captures your imagination beyond the mechanism alone. It’s a big outlay for something so whimsical, so prepare to pay a bit more to secure the tourbillon that reflects your particular whims!”
~ Kyron Keogh, founder of Rox Jewellers
The value of a tourbillon watch essentially boils down to the amount of human assembly vs. machine intervention. The wristwatches can range from a few thousand dollars to nearly a million dollars. How much you spend has less to do with the quality of the watch and more to do with your budget and your personal tastes. So what are some options to consider?
Tourbillon Brands to Keep on Your Watchlist
Many brands offer luxury tourbillon watches, with a range of styles, pricing, and design. The only commonality in tourbillon watches is the device that keeps the timepiece ticking. Outside of that, the wristwatches can take on many forms. Luxury brands offer vintage models, modern-looking carbon fiber bridges and classic platinum casing.
IWC PORTUGIESER CONSTANT-FORCE TOURBILLON EDITION “150 YEARS”
Keep a classic look with this tourbillon watch. With a limit of 15 pieces, this wristwatch matches the style of tourbillon with technical quality. The manually wound tourbillon watch beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 96 hours.
DE GRISOGONO TONDO TOURBILLON GIOIELLO S01
Considered a rare mechanical watch, the Gioiello S01 brings luxury up a notch with 18K white gold and 529 white diamonds. The tourbillon plate is coated with mother-of-pearl, bringing a new kind of elegance to the idea of tourbillon watches.
Bell & Ross consistently match utility with style and elegance. The square wristwatch is made with carbon fiber, giving an instrument look to a fashionable piece. The BR 01 is limited to sixty pieces.
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK TOURBILLON
The Royal Oak Tourbillon comes from the famous Audemars Piguet. The stainless steel case ensures that the tourbillon mechanism within garners all of the attention. The watch gives a masculine look to the tourbillon device.
HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON SKELETON
The Skeleton brings a new level of transparency to the tourbillon watch, exposing nearly the entire mechanism of the wristwatch. The watch offers a power reserve of 115 hours, with black-plated hands and a satin-finished black ceramic case.
The Bottom Line: Tourbillons Put Horological Fashion on Display
If nothing else, the tourbillon watches listed above show just how much personal pride you can find in a perfectly crafted mechanical wristwatch. Of course, the price tag associated with tourbillon watches is not for everyone. But if you have the budget, tourbillon may be the piece of art you are looking for.
“Tourbillons are a tiny work of kinetic art on your wrist, which you can admire at any time. Of course, like a Rolls-Royce or Bentley, you’re joining a highly exclusive club — but unlike certain examples of those cars, no one will ever begrudge you your tourbillon. In fact, as a conversation piece, you can’t beat it.”
~ Kyron Keogh, founder of Rox Jewellers
Want to learn more? Shop our selection of luxury watches to find the sophistication you are looking for!
